If you’re a plus-size woman, you know the frustration of trying to find clothing that fits well and looks good. But did you know that you can take a regular size sewing pattern and convert it to a plus size? With a few simple measurements and a little bit of math, you can create a custom-fit sewing pattern that will flatter your figure. Here’s how to do it: First, take your measurements. You’ll need to measure your bust, waist, and hips, as well as your height. Once you have your measurements, you’ll need to do a little bit of math to determine your pattern size. To find your bust size, add your bust measurement to your waist measurement and divide by two. For example, if your bust measures 42 inches and your waist measures 36 inches, your bust size would be (42 + 36) / 2, or 39 inches. To find your waist size, subtract your bust measurement from your hip measurement. For example, if your hip measurement is 44 inches and your bust measurement is 39 inches, your waist size would be 44 – 39, or 5 inches. To find your hip size, simply subtract your waist measurement from your hip measurement. For example, if your hip measurement is 44 inches and your waist measurement is 5 inches, your hip size would be 44 – 5, or 39 inches. Once you have your measurements, you can use a size chart to determine your pattern size. Most size charts will list bust, waist, and hip measurements for each pattern size. For example, if your bust measurement is 39 inches, your waist measurement is 5 inches, and your hip measurement is 39 inches, you would need a size 18 pattern. Once you have your pattern size, you can begin altering the pattern to fit your figure. You’ll want to start by lengthening or shortening the pattern pieces to match your height. Then, you’ll need to adjust the width of the pattern pieces to match your measurements. For example, if you need to add 2 inches to the bust measurement, you’ll need to add 2 inches to the width of the front pattern piece. You can also make other adjustments to the pattern, such as adding or removing darts, to further customize the fit. With a little bit of effort, you can easily convert a regular size sewing pattern to a plus size. This will allow you to create
Grading is the process of dividing a sewing pattern into one-size squares and making it larger or smaller as needed. When cutting a pattern apart and moving the pieces slightly away from one another, you can enlarge it by hand. Slash and spread grading is defined as this by the diagram below. If you want to make the most of your pattern, you’ll need to increase your bust size by four inches. If you plan on re-slashing, drawing, or spreading your pattern before increasing the size, two inches is the minimum. You learn a lot about cutting your fabric precisely to the pattern and ensuring that your seam allowances are precise. The average size is measured at 3/8′′. That distance is usually sufficient for the larger sizes to reach the same landmark, such as the waist, by going out and over.
It may not make sense to add length to a short waisted woman due to her growing circumference. Can you make a regular pattern work for petite or plus sizes? When comparing your measurements to the pattern, it is a good idea to spread or overlap or slash around the edges to avoid blending them. After you’ve purchased a muslin that fits, keep it.
How Do You Change A Pattern To A Larger Size?
If you’re going to take your pattern to the next level, the slash and spread method is the best choice. To increase or decrease the pattern size, lay horizontal and vertical lines on your pattern piece. If you want a completely different pattern, cut along the lines and then spread it out.
It is not difficult to reverse a pattern, just take some time and effort to do so. There is no additional method for shrinking or enlarging each pattern piece. Ascertain that you have the following tools at your disposal. A cardboard cutting surface is made up of one-inch squares, heavy-duty pattern paper, and French curves. Sharpie markers are used to trace pins. In a typical commercial pattern, the computer splits up the half inch and adds 1/3 of it at each of the locations where the pattern has been split. When done incorrectly, this method results in a poor fit, particularly in the shoulder area.
To make the bodice more functional, add 1/2 of a blade to the front and back. According to most women, the bust area requires more attention than the shoulders. The majority of patterns include an eighth-inch to a quarter-inch increase in the top of the shoulder and neckline. Even this small amount adds a significant amount to the bodice’s overall fit. The shoulder moves at a slightly different rate with each size you see. To do this, you’ll need to smoothly blend the pattern pieces together. If you are short-waisted, it is recommended that you draw a Miss Petite line to show you where you can shorten your bodice (or lengthen it if you are long-waisted).
Depending on your level of expertise, splitting and spreading patterns will serve as your training wheels until you are confident enough to simply draw out the new patterns. You may need to adjust a few lines after folding down bodices in unusual shapes, such as the one in my 1940s “Swing” Dress pattern. To ensure proper sizing, begin at the top and work your way down. To fit a child, you can shrink a pattern down to its size by not only horizontally but vertically. Because the adult pattern will be far too large for a child, it should be shrunk. You can find your armcye (armhole) measurement by adjusting the seams to 7/8 for the seam allowance on your shoulder and side seam. Redrawing your armhole curve with the French curve is a good way to do so.
In addition to the adult bodice, the rest of the bodice will be too long for a small child, so the other vertical line will suffice. If you are a size 8 in the bust, a size 12 in the waist, and a size 14 in the hips, you will need to grade between them. I recommend wearing your gown in a size 18; however, you can use the 18-26 supplement to give your gown a larger bodice. The pattern piece should be spread in three parts, as shown in the illustration. The amount added at the curve and at the underarm/sleeve seams is the least important. You must follow these guidelines when wearing a long, short, fitted, or puffed sleeve. If you’re making a child’s sleeve out of an adult sleeve, you’ll need to cut it vertically and horizontally.
